Forging the Chandelier

Here’s more photos of working on the chandelier.

This is the first joint in protruding from the hub had to be fit into the socket in the hub on one end and upset on the other. The sockets were 1-5/8″ and the only sizes of bar we could get were 1-1/2″ and 2″. We took a 1-1/2″ square bar and forged it round. It’s got about the same amount of mass as the 1-5/8″ round bar, so it was perfect.


Here’s upsetting the bar against an anvil set on the floor. I don’t have rubber to set under it, so I put cardboard to keep it from bouncing off the concrete at least.


This here is the shell of the round hub on the right. It’s shaped to approximately a 12″ radius circle, and it will look like a quarter sphere coming through the wall. (Check out the install photos we posted last month.)

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The first joint is inserted into one of these sockets that is held in place by a collar. In the picture of the hub above, we are cutting holes for these. Set screws are used to stabilize the arm, to keep it from twisting or sliding in the socket. Each of the arm pieces gets a slot cut in the top to allow for the wiring to move from the hub to the arm.


And here you go! A rather awkward photo of the full hub assembly. You can see the effort we went through with collars and the sockets to get a layered effect. I think it definitely paid off, especially on the left side, which is concave and really needs something to pull it back out of the wall.


Finally, a photo of the backside. You can see the tubing structure as I mentioned in an earlier post. It worked fantastically to create an almost seamless transition between the sphere and the wall. Another detail to note are the two arches. They hold LEDs in the end. The central panel is removable and locked in place with six custom locking brackets that are accessible from the front. Eventually this central panel will be replaced with some form of lens, like blown or stained glass.

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